12 Lavender Growing Mistakes You’re Probably Making
Growing lavender is supposed to be easy, but it is surprisingly easy to get wrong. Here are 12 common mistakes that cause woody stems, fewer flowers, or dead plants—and exactly how to fix them. #LavenderCare #GardeningTips #GrowLavender #PerennialGarden #HerbGarden
I killed my first lavender plant with kindness. I watered it every few days, gave it rich compost, and planted it in a nice, shady spot. It turned yellow, then brown, and then it was gone.
I had no idea what went wrong. After years of trial and error, I learned that lavender is not like other garden plants.
It thrives on neglect. Most mistakes happen because gardeners treat it too well. Here are the 12 most common mistakes and how to avoid them.
Mistake 1: Choosing the Wrong Variety for Your Climate
Not all lavender is the same. Some varieties are hardy, while others are tender. Choosing the wrong one for your area can mean no blooms or a dead plant.
What happens: The plant may not survive winter, struggle with summer heat and humidity, or fail to flower.
How to fix it: Choose a variety that suits your climate. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is hardy and can survive winters down to -20°F (zones 5-8). French and Spanish lavenders are more tender and suited to warmer climates. If you are not sure, ask your local nursery for recommendations.
Mistake 2: Overwatering
This is the number one killer of lavender. Lavender is a Mediterranean plant that is used to hot, dry summers and poor, rocky soil. It hates wet feet.
What happens: Overwatering causes root rot, which is almost always fatal. The roots cannot breathe and start to rot. Signs include yellowing leaves, dropping leaves, a rotting smell, and sodden soil. The plant may wilt even though the soil is wet.
How to fix it: Water deeply but infrequently. Let the soil dry out completely between waterings. Stick your finger a couple of inches into the soil—if it feels dry, it is time to water. If it is still wet, wait. Once established, lavender is drought-tolerant and needs very little water.
Mistake 3: Poor Drainage or Heavy Soil
Lavender needs well-drained, gritty soil. Heavy clay or compacted soils hold too much moisture, which leads to root rot and disease.
What happens: The roots drown in soggy soil. The plant wilts, turns yellow, and eventually dies.
How to fix it: If you have heavy clay soil, do not plant lavender directly in the ground. Grow it in raised beds or containers instead. Amend the soil with sand, gravel, or grit to improve drainage. For containers, use a potting mix that does not contain added fertilizer and mix in extra perlite or sand. Ideal soil pH is between 6.5 and 7.5—slightly alkaline.
Mistake 4: Planting in Too Much Shade
Lavender is a sun worshipper. It needs full sun to thrive and produce flowers.
What happens: In too much shade, lavender becomes leggy, grows weak, and produces few or no flowers. The plant stretches for light and becomes floppy.
How to fix it: Plant lavender in your sunniest spot, with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. If you only have partial shade, choose a variety that tolerates it, but expect fewer flowers.
Mistake 5: Fertilizing (Overfeeding)
Lavender thrives in poor soil. It does not need rich compost or regular feeding. Fertilizer encourages soft, floppy growth and fewer flowers. Too much nitrogen causes lots of leaves but almost no blooms.
What happens: The plant produces weak, floppy growth that is less hardy and more vulnerable to pests and disease. Flowers are reduced or absent.
How to fix it: Do not fertilize lavender unless your soil is extremely poor. Even then, use a light hand. A thin layer of compost around the plant in spring is usually enough. Lavender “thrives on neglect”.
Mistake 6: Pruning at the Wrong Time (or Not at All)
Pruning is essential for keeping lavender compact and floriferous. But doing it at the wrong time or cutting into old wood can kill the plant.
What happens: Without pruning, lavender becomes woody, leggy, and produces fewer flowers. Pruning too early in spring removes winter protection and exposes the plant to frost damage. Cutting into the woody base can severely damage or kill the plant because old wood does not regenerate.
How to fix it: Prune lavender right after flowering in July and August. This gives the plant time to put on new growth before winter. In spring, wait until you can clearly see new green growth before pruning. Never cut into the old, woody stems. Prune back about one-third of the plant, but always leave some green growth.
Mistake 7: Overcrowding Plants
Lavender needs space to breathe. Crowded plants have poor airflow, which leads to dampness and disease.
What happens: Lack of air circulation encourages fungal diseases and root rot. The plants compete for nutrients and become weak.
How to fix it: Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart for good airflow. For hedges, space them 30cm (1ft) apart, or 45cm (18in) for larger cultivars. Good air circulation is essential for healthy lavender.
Mistake 8: Using the Wrong Mulch
Mulch helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, but the wrong type can harm lavender.
What happens: Moisture-retentive mulches like wood chips, bark, or compost hold water against the stems and roots, leading to rot and woody stems.
How to fix it: Use gravel, small stones, or grit as mulch instead. These materials reflect heat and improve drainage, which lavender loves. Avoid bark, wood chips, or compost around the base of the plant.
Mistake 9: Improper Watering During Establishment
Newly planted lavender needs consistent moisture to establish roots, but many gardeners overdo it.
What happens: Overwatering young plants causes root rot and failure. Underwatering can also stress the plant.
How to fix it: Water regularly during the first summer to help the plant establish. But let the soil dry out between waterings. Once the plant is well-established, reduce watering significantly.
Mistake 10: Expecting Immediate Blooms
Lavender takes time to get going, especially from seed.
What happens: Young plants may not flower for the first year or even two. Gardeners often assume something is wrong and overwater or overfeed.
How to fix it: Be patient. Some lavender varieties can take up to three years to bloom. As long as the plant looks healthy and is getting enough sun, it will eventually flower.
Mistake 11: Using Tap Water with High Chlorine
Chlorine and heavy metals in tap water can stress lavender over time.
What happens: The plant may show signs of stress, leaf burn, or poor growth.
How to fix it: If possible, use rainwater or let tap water sit out for 24 hours before watering. This allows chlorine to evaporate.
Mistake 12: Not Protecting from Extreme Winter Cold
Even hardy lavender can be damaged by harsh winters, especially if it has been pruned too late or grown in wet soil.
What happens: The plant may die back or fail to return in spring.
How to fix it: Protect the roots with a thick layer of gravel mulch. Use frost protection like fleece insulation for the main plant. Avoid pruning in autumn, as this encourages tender new growth that is vulnerable to frost.
Quick Reference Table: 12 Mistakes at a Glance
| Mistake | What to Do Instead |
|---|---|
| Choosing wrong variety | Match the variety to your climate |
| Overwatering | Water deeply but infrequently. Let soil dry out. |
| Poor drainage or heavy soil | Amend with sand or gravel. Use raised beds or containers. |
| Too much shade | Give at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily |
| Fertilizing | Do not fertilize. Lavender thrives in poor soil. |
| Pruning too early or into wood | Prune right after flowering. Never cut into woody stems. |
| Overcrowding | Space plants 12-18 inches apart |
| Wrong mulch | Use gravel or grit, not wood chips or bark |
| Improper watering when young | Water regularly the first summer, then reduce |
| Expecting immediate blooms | Be patient—some take 2-3 years to bloom |
| Using tap water | Use rainwater or let tap water sit out overnight |
| No winter protection | Protect roots with gravel and use frost covers |
My Personal Lavender Journey
I made almost every mistake on this list. I overwatered, overfed, and pruned at the wrong time. I killed several plants before I learned that lavender is not like other garden plants. It does not need rich soil or constant care. It needs sun, drainage, and neglect.
Now I grow lavender in a raised bed with sandy soil. I water it only when the soil is completely dry. I prune it after flowering and never cut into the old wood. My plants are healthy, compact, and covered in flowers every summer.
The Bottom Line
Lavender is not hard to grow, but it does require a different approach than most garden plants. Give it sun, give it drainage, and then leave it alone. Do not overwater, do not fertilize, and do not prune into the old wood. Choose the right variety for your climate and be patient with young plants.
I used to think lavender was fussy and difficult. Now I know it is one of the easiest plants to grow—if you follow these simple rules. Try these fixes and you will be rewarded with healthy, fragrant lavender for years.
